How to sew a dress with embroidered puffs

sew a dress with embroidered puffs

I will show you how to make a pattern and sew a dress like this.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

For work we need:
1) white cotton fabric;
2) sewing thread;
3) threads of a moulin;
4) lace;
5) millimeter paper for building a pattern of dress;
6) a pencil;
7) marker for tissue;
8) tailor’s pins;
9) tailor’s chalk;
10) scissors;
11) embroidery needles;
12) centimeter tape;
13) oblique bake;
14) buttons;
15) sewing machine;
16) iron.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Work begins with the measurement of a child’s figure.
To create a pattern for such a dress, the following measurements will be necessary:
1) The arc of the shoulder girdle behind (Dp.s) – is measured horizontally on the back between the protruding points of the shoulders;
2) Chest circumference (Og) – measured horizontally around the fullest part of the breast;
3) Sleeve length (Др) – in this article it is measured from axillary hollows down the arm to the required length;
4) Sleeve width (W) – in this article is measured horizontally around the arm at the point where the desired length of the sleeve ends;
5) Product length (Di) – in this article is measured vertically on the back from the most protruding point of the neck (from the 7th cervical vertebra) to the desired dress length.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

CONSTRUCTION OF AUXILIARY LEGAL.
On a sheet of a paper millimeter, we draw two perpendicular lines and put the letter A at the point of their intersection (Fig. We draw these lines in the middle of the sheet because In the sequel we will add the sheet.
All constructions are made in the lower left corner.
АБ = АВ = ВГ = ½ Дп.з +1,3 cm (Figures b, d).
VD = 0 G0 + 3.8 cm (Figures b, d).
AE = AH = W3 = 1/12 Og + 0.5 cm (Figure b, d).
From t A compass conducting arc radius equal to the segment AE, connecting points E and F (figure b, d.) -. Is the line of the neck.
On the straight line BG, we plot the segments BI = 2 cm and HA = 3.8 cm (Fig. C, d).
We connect points D and K by a smooth line (Figures c, d) – this is the line of the armhole under the axillary depressions.
We connect the points I and E by a straight line (Figure c, d) – this is the shoulder line.
From the compasses, we draw an arc with a radius equal to the segment AB, connecting points B and B (Fig. C, d).
Through the points, D and K draw a straight line and extend it further. At the intersection of this line with the arc of the BW, we put m. A, at the point of intersection with the arc EJ we put the point M (Figure d).
On the straight line GB upward from m. K we plot the segment equal to the segment of the CM and put the point H (Figure d).
NP = HD (Figure d).
GN = DP (Figure d).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Cut pattern No. 1 along the lines passing through the points D-K-H-P (Figures a, d). This is a template for the further construction of the armhole D-KN sleeve, shelf and backrest dress.
The remaining sheet is folded twice in half. Cut out the detail along the lines passing through the points M-M-E-I-L-B (Figure b).
We translate the LM segment into three lower layers of paper. We open the cutout details. Cut the top piece along the green line, then join the resulting halves with the bottom part (yellow arrows) with the help of an adhesive tape (Fig. C). So we got the template number 2 (figure d).
Template No. 2 is needed for us to build a sleeve, shelf, and backrest, and will also serve as a mold for shaping the dress (see paragraphs 19, 20).
The pieces 1-2 and 3-4 on the pattern number 2 are the shoulder lines of the dress.
The segments LM and M1L1 are the front seams of the sleeves.
The segments L2M2 and M3L3 are the back seams of the sleeves.
The segments 5-6 and 7-8 are the lines of the middle of the back.
The segment 9-10 is the midline of the shelf.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

CONSTRUCTION OF DRAWING OF THE SLEEVE OF THE SLEEVE.
In the middle of a sheet of millimeter paper, we draw a straight line vertically (Fig. A, green line). On this line, the sheet will then be bent in half.
From point 1 to the left, we draw perpendicularly the second line and measure the segments on it (Figure a):
1-2 = length of the arc MM2 x 3. Measure the length of the arc MM2 with a centimeter tape on the template No. 2 (see item 5 in Figure d).
2-3 = DG (see item 4 in figure d).
From point 3 downwards we draw a line perpendicular to the line 1-3.
We overlay the drawing template number 1, combining its top points with points 2 and 3 in the drawing (Fig. B).
We circle the pattern along the line of the armhole D-KN (fig. B, red arrow). At the point of intersection with the vertical line we put m. 4.
From m. 4 down, we plot the segment 4-5 = Ap (Fig. C).
From item 5 to the right, we draw perpendicularly the line relative to segment 4-5 (Fig. C).
5-6 = 1-3.
1-6 = 3-5.
The drawing of the sleeve pattern on this is finished.
Fold the sheet in half along the vertical line drawn at the beginning of the construction and cut out the sleeve part along the lines passing through points 1-2-4-5-6 (Figure d).
We open the paper and get a pattern of the sleeve (Fig. F). From the fabric, we will cut out two such parts.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

CONSTRUCTION OF THE DRAWING OF THE SHAPE AND BACK.
In the middle of a sheet of millimeter paper, we draw a straight line vertically (Fig. A, green line). On this line, the sheet will then be bent in half.
From point 7 to the left, we draw perpendicularly the second line and measure the segments on it (Figures a):
7-8 = length of the arc MM1 x 3. Measure the length of the arc MM1 with a centimeter tape on the template No. 2 (see item 5 of Figure d).
8-9 = DG (see item 4 of figure d).
From point 9 downwards we draw a line perpendicular to the line 7-9.
We overlay the drawing template number 1, combining its top points with points 8 and 9 in the drawing (Fig. B).
We circle the pattern along the line of the armhole D-KN (fig. B, red arrow). At the point of intersection with the vertical line we put m. 10.
From the point 7 down we lay off the segment 7-12 = Di + 6 cm (Fig. C).
From point 12 to the left, we draw perpendicularly the line relative to segment 7-12 (Fig. C).
7-9 = 11-12.
7-12 = 9-11.
In parallel, lines 11-12 upwards draw four lines with a distance between them of 3 cm. The shaded areas are the folds along the bottom of the dress (Fig. C).
Drawing the pattern off the shelf and backrest is finished.
Fold the sheet in half along the vertical line drawn at the beginning of the construction and cut out the detail along the lines passing through the points 7-8-10-11-12 (figure d).
We open the paper and cut it in a fold. We get the patterns of the shelf and backrest (Fig. F). From the fabric, we will cut out two parts of the back and one detail of the shelf with a fold in the middle.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

KROY.
Fold the fabric of cotton fabric in half facing the inside. We pick the patterns to the fabric with tailor’s pins. Cut out the details with allowances on the seams, as shown in the photo (red lines and numbers).
(All sizes hereinafter are in centimeters).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We translate the fold lines at the shelf and backrest onto the fabric. To do this, turn the paper, starting from the bottom one, one by one, along these lines, and traverse the tail of the paper with the tailor’s chalk.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We translate the fold lines to the second half of the shelf and the second part of the backrest.
To do this, we break the fabric layers with tailor’s pins (Fig. A), turn the part over the visible part of the pins, and draw lines using the ruler and the tailor’s chalk (Fig. B).
At the back, in the same way, you need to translate the midline of the back.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Now, along with the lines of wrinkles, lines, middle back and middle of the line shelves (for tissue fold) using a needle with a contrasting color thread stitching paving seam “forward needle”.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

To the lower cut of the sleeve on the front side of the fabric, we attach lace and chop the tail pins (Figure a).
Sew the lace with a machine stitch “zigzag” (Fig. B).
We bend the fabric with the sewn lace on the wrong side of the sleeve and along the fold of the fabric lay a finishing stitch with a seam width of 0.1 cm (Fig. C).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

At the bottom of the sleeve, we make markings for future folds (buff).
To do this, we take a sheet of paper “in a box.” We draw four lines on it in pencil: the first line is 3 cells from the edge (1.5 cm), the next – 2 cells (1 cm) from the previous ones (Fig.
We put a sheet of the sheet with the marking on the wrong side of the sleeve edge of the sheet to the fold of the fabric and pin it with tailor’s pins (Figure a).
We fold the paper along the first planned line and put the points corresponding to the cells of the sheet on the fabric (Fig. B). Then bend the sheet along the second planned line and again put the points on the fabric (Fig. C). So mark all four lines (figure d).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Through the points of the marking made by us with a needle with a contrasting color and strong thread, we make four stitches with a seam “forward the needle” (Fig.
We take the thread 20 cm longer than the width of the sleeve. It should hang freely 10 cm from the extreme points of the markings on each side. All the lines are made the same, i.e. If the stitch of one stitch is above the fabric, then the stitch of the next stitch must also be above the fabric (Fig. B).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Fold the inside sides of the sleeve part with the details of the shelf and back, combining the sections of the armhole of these parts, and chip tailpieces. The same operation is done with the second sleeve.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We grind these details along the armhole with a 1 cm wide seam (Figure a).
We process sections of the armhole on the overlock or machine stitch “zigzag” close to the stitching of the sleeves. We press the seams on the side of the sleeve (Fig. B).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Along the cut of the neck of the product, we make markings for future folds (buffers).
To do this, we take a sheet of paper “in a box.” We draw six lines on it with a pencil: the first one at a distance of 2 cells from the edge (1 cm), the next – 2 cells (1 cm) from the previous ones (Fig.
We overlay a sheet of the sheet with a marking on the wrong side of the back of the edge of the sheet to the cut of the neck and 1 cm up from the line of the middle of the back. We attach it with tailor’s pins (Figure a) and make markings along the entire length of the sheet as in point 13 (Fig. B).
After marking out all six lines, move the sheet further, combining the extreme points marked on the fabric with the marking lines of the sheet (Fig. C), and continue marking (Figure d).

 

Through the points of the markings made by us along the cut of the neck with a needle with a contrasting color and strong thread lay six stitches with a seam “forward needle” as in point 14.

 

We begin shaping the dress, that is, we will give it a shape.
By pulling the fabric along the neck of the throat along the tightening lines, we collect the fabric in the assembly (Figure a).
We put a pattern for dressing the dress (item 5, template No. 2) on a hard surface into which pins can be pinned (ironing board or upholstered board). Place the preform in the folds with the front side on the template, combining the line of the neck of the template with the cut of the neck of the product (Fig. A, red arrow).
Matching the middle line of the shelf on the template with the line of the middle of the shelf on the dress, stick out the tail pins at the alignment points (Fig. A, blue arrow).
We combine the lines of the front seams of the sleeves on the template with the front seams of the sleeves on the dress, at the alignment points we puncture the pins (Fig. B, red arrows). Similarly, we combine the rear lines of the sleeves of the sleeves (Fig. C, red arrows).
We combine the lines of the middle of the backrest on the template with the lines of the middle of the back of the dress, at the alignment points we pin the pins (fig d, red arrows).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Straighten creases.
We tie tightening threads in pairs (red arrows).
To fix the folds, we steam it with an iron.
Thus we have shaped our dress and now we can begin to embroider the pattern.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We embroider the dress on the neck threads of a mulina in three threads according to the scheme below.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

The row-based is made by the seam “bundle”. This seam refers to inelastic seams, i.e. It does not stretch in the transverse direction.
SHUV “ZHUGUT” – SINGLE.
1st stitch: Bring the thread between the folds 1 and 2 on the front side and draw the needle from right to left through the 1st fold (Fig. We tighten the thread. We draw the needle through the second crease, while the thread must be under the needle (Fig. B). We tighten the thread until the stitch lies on the crease. The bottom harness is made (Fig. C).
2nd stitch: We draw the needle through the crease 3, holding the thread above the needle (Figure d). We tighten the thread until the stitch lies on the crease. The upper harness is made (Fig. E).
3rd stitch. We draw the needle through the fourth crease to perform the 2nd lower strand. The thread must be under the needle (Fig. F). We tighten the thread until the stitch lies on the crease.
Continue to embroider by keeping the needle horizontally (parallel to the tightening stitch) when performing each stitch and changing the position of the thread (the upper string is the thread above the needle, the lower tourniquet is the thread under the needle) (Figure g).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

The row-base is made by the seam “bundle”. This seam refers to inelastic seams, i.e. It does not stretch in the transverse direction.
SHUV “ZHUGUT” – SINGLE.
1st stitch: Bring the thread between the folds 1 and 2 on the front side and draw the needle from right to left through the 1st fold (Fig. We tighten the thread. We draw the needle through the second crease, while the thread must be under the needle (Fig. B). We tighten the thread until the stitch lies on the crease. The bottom harness is made (Fig. C).
2nd stitch: We draw the needle through the crease 3, holding the thread above the needle (Figure d). We tighten the thread until the stitch lies on the crease. The upper harness is made (Fig. E).
3rd stitch. We draw the needle through the fourth crease to perform the 2nd lower strand. The thread must be under the needle (Fig. F). We tighten the thread until the stitch lies on the crease.
Continue to embroider by keeping the needle horizontally (parallel to the tightening stitch) when performing each stitch and changing the position of the thread (the upper string is the thread above the needle, the lower tourniquet is the thread the needle) (Figure g).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

The seam of the second and subsequent rows begins to be performed from the midline (center) line of the part of the shelf (we noted it in point 11) so that the pattern does not move and is symmetrical.
To do this, we draw the thread on the front side through the central depression (Figure a) and execute buffers to the right to the end of the row in the figure (Fig. B).
Turn the work. Using a new thread, draw the needle to the front side between the folds of the embroidered first strand of the rope (Fig. C) and, holding the work inverted, execute the buffers in the opposite direction to the end of the row

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

“Lattice” is an elastic seam. It is formed by a combination of harnesses and stepped (or corner) stitches and can be combined with any number of steps.
SHIELD “GRILL” – 2-STEP.
Put the thread on the front side to the left of the fold 1 (Figure a). Holding the thread from above, we draw the needle from right to left through fold 2 above the tightening stitch (Fig. B).
We tighten the thread to make the upper band and, holding the needle horizontally, we draw it from right to left through the fold 3, stepping down a quarter of the gap (Fig. C). We tighten the thread (Figure d).
Holding the needle horizontally, we draw it from right to left through fold 4, stepping back down a quarter of the gap (half-gap). Thread over the needle (Fig. E).
Holding the thread from below, we draw the needle from right to left through fold 5 on the half-gap (Fig. F). We tighten the thread to form the bottom bundle.
Holding the needle horizontally, we draw it from right to left through fold 6, stepping upwards by a quarter of the gap. Thread the needle (Figure h).
Holding the needle horizontally, we draw it from right to left through fold 7, stepping upwards by a quarter of the gap (above the tightening stitch). Thread the needle (Figure k).
Holding the thread from above, we draw the needle from right to left through fold 8 above the tightening stitch. We tighten the thread to form the upper bundle (Fig.
We continue to embroider: 2 steps down, bottom tourniquet, 2 steps up, upper harness, etc.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

SHUT “GRATE” – ROMB.
If the rows of the lattice are performed in a mirror image, rhombuses are formed. The more stairs have a seam, the larger the diamonds will be.
We deduce a string on the obverse to the left of a fold 1 under a bottom plait of the top row. While holding the thread above the needle, we perform the upper tourniquet right under the lower strand of the previous row (Fig.
Holding the string above the needle, perform 2 stepped stitches down, one at a time through each quarter of the gap (Figure b).
Holding the thread under the needle, perform the lower harness, capturing the same folds as for 2nd upper harness previous series (Fig. C).
Hold the thread under the needle, perform 2-step stitch up (through each quarter of the interval) to the lower bundle of the previous row (Figure d). Perform the upper harness (Fig. F).
Repeating the operations described above, we continue to embroider to the end of the series.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

SHIELD “LATTICE” – HEART.
Output the thread to the left of the fold 1 under the lower bundle of the upper row (Figure a). While holding the string above the needle, we perform the upper tourniquet right under the lower harness of the previous row (Fig. B).
Holding the needle thread above, perform step 5 down stitches, one through each quarter period (Fig. S).
Holding the thread under the needle, the lower carry harness, capturing the same fold, and that for the 2nd lower harness previous row (Fig. A, d).
Holding the thread under the needle, perform step 5 stitches upwards (onomu quarter through each gap) to the third lower harness previous row. We carry out the upper bundle (figure d).
The seam “lattice” – hearts is finished.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

After completing the main pattern, we decorate our embroidery with floral motifs.
“ROCKOKO” – ROSE.
CENTER (on 2 folds). Output the thread on the front side at point A, to the left of fold 2 (Figure 1). We draw the needle from right to left through the vertices of folds 3 and 2 (from point B to point A). We leave the needle in the tissue (Figure 2).
We thread the needle clockwise 8 times, performing coils of the same size (Figure 3).
We thread through the threads to finish the knot. Bring the needle to the wrong side through point B to fix the thread (Fig. 4).
Bring the thread to the front side at point A. We draw the needle from point B to point A and leave it in the tissue (Figure 5). Finish the module as before, laying it along the previous nodule (Figure 6).
EXTERNAL LIPES. Output the thread at the point C, to the left of the fold 1. We draw the needle from the point D, to the right of the fold 3, to the point C. We leave the needle in the tissue (Figure 6).
We sew the needle with a thread clockwise 12 times and perform a knot. We draw the needle to the wrong side through point D, to fix the thread (Figure 7).
We deduce a string at the point E, to the left of the fold 2. We draw the needle from the point F, to the right of the fold 4, to the point E. We leave the needle in the tissue (Figure 8).
We finish the bundle, fixing it at point F (Figure 9).
We deduce a string at the point G, to the left of the fold 3. We draw the needle from the point H, to the left of the fold 3, to the point G (Figure 10). We finish the nodule, as before.
Output the thread at the point I, to the right of the fold 4. We draw the needle from point J, to the left of fold 2, to point I (Figure 11). We finish the module, as before.
Output the thread at the point K, to the right of the fold 3. We draw the needle from point L to point K, placing the petal inside the 1st outer lobe (Figure 12).
We finish the bundle as before, fixing it at the point L (Figure 13).
Rosa “rococo” on 4 folds finished (Figure 14).
We decorate our rose with leaflets (Figure 15).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We deduce a thread on the front side at point An on the top of the fold (Figure a). We draw the needle through point A and the tops of the folds and output it at point C (the thread is under the needle) (Fig. B). We tighten the thread, tightening the thread under the needle (Fig. C). Bring the needle to the wrong side of the loop and tighten the thread (Figure d). The seam “loop” is finished (Fig. F).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs sew a dress with embroidered puffs  sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Finished kind of embroidery.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We begin embroidery of the sleeve.
We pull the fabric at the bottom of the sleeve with pulling lines for a width: W + 2 cm. We
straighten the wrinkles and steam them off with an iron.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

 

We embroider a pattern on this pattern with threads of a floss in three strands.

Remove the pulling threads and decorate the embroidered pattern with floral motifs.
We get such an appearance of the sleeve.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

 

Forming the fastener on the back of the dress.
On the underside, stepping back from the center line of the backrest 1 cm to the side of the cut of the part, let’s bend the allowance on the seam on the front side (Figure a).
Stepping back from the cut of the neck down by 15 cm, we make a bracing from the bend of the back part to the line of the middle of the back (Fig. A, blue arrow).
Scissors cut the fabric under the bracing as shown in Fig. B.
We turn the resulting corner to the front side. Through the entire length of the fastener, press the fabric 1 cm to the wrong side (Fig. C).
The same procedure is repeated for the second part of the backrest.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

 

Fold the two details of the back with the front sides inwards, combining the lines of the middle of the back and the bottom of the fastener (Figure a). We are splitting with tailor’s pins.
We grind both parts along the line of the middle of the back, making at the beginning and at the end of the stitching line. We process the slices of the fastener and the middle seam of the backrest on the overclock or the machine line “zigzag”. At the middle seam of the back, we leave the allowance for the seam 1 cm. Press this seam on one side (Fig. B).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

The corner of the left side of the fastener is displayed on the front side of the backrest part, and the right part is left on the wrong side. We combine the lines of the middle of the backrest on two parts of the fastener and chop off the tail pins (Figure a).
At the bottom of the fastener, we do the bracing (Fig. B).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Treatment of the neck of the throat.
We bend on one side the fold of the oblique bake, apply it to the neck of the neck, pin it along the entire length with tailor’s pins (Figure a), and sharpen it along the bend to the neck (Fig. B).
It is very important here not to stretch the cut of the neck during the grinding, so it is necessary to check with pattern No. 2 in all operations, as in point 19.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Cut off the ends of the oblique bake, leaving 0.5 cm from the folding of the fastener on the back of the dress (Fig. We bend these tips to the wrong side (Fig. B).
We bend the oblique bake itself along the entire length to the wrong side so that its fold from the back side protrudes from the fold on the front side by 0.1 – 0.2 cm (Fig. C).
On the front side of the dress we lay the machine line under the fold of the oblique bake (fig. D).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Align the throat section by template No. 2 and iron it.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Fold the back and the shelf with the inside sides. We combine the seams of the hooking of the sleeve and the side sections of the back, shelf and sleeve parts (Figure a). We lay along the entire length of the machine line with a seam width of 1 cm (Fig. B). We process cuts on the overlock or machine stitch “zigzag” (Fig. D) and press the seam on the side of the backrest detail.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

We bend to the wrong side the lower section of the dress by 1.5 cm (Figure a). Then again, 1.5 cm (Figure b). We break the tail pins and on the inside fold on the wrong side of the product lay a machine stitch with a seam width of 0.1 cm (figure d).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

On the front side of the product, we combine the lines of wrinkles in pairs, chop the tailpins (Figure a) and lay a machine stitch along these lines (Fig. B). We remove the auxiliary threads and press the resulting folds downwards (Fig. C).

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

Remove the tightening threads along the cut of the neck. On the line of the middle of the back, we sew the loops on the left side of the fastener and sew buttons on the right along the same line (Fig. Remove the auxiliary threads (Figure b). Ottjuzhivaem whole product.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs

The dress is ready. And finally a few photos of a small model in a new outfit.

 sew a dress with embroidered puffs  sew a dress with embroidered puffs  sew a dress with embroidered puffs

courtesy: stranamasterov